A Visit to Tropical Guam Part III of III

This is the last entry for the Guam journal. If you have not read the previous two parts first, just scroll on down for Guam Parts I and II.



A tropical beauty it is...

Remember at the beginning of the blog I mentioned that one of the reasons for accepting Daisy’s invitation to go to Guam was to do a “special thing.”

On Friday, December 9, with the trade winds lightly blowing scattered clouds aloft in the moon-lit sky, the Philippine Sea waves gently sounding in the bay, and tree frogs noisily chirping in the tropical green environment surrounding the tall cascading water fountain...I took a knee, opened a ring box, and asked Daisy L. Stewart to marry me. She said yes!

Big grins all around!

(click on photo to get a better view)

Unique engagement ring for an equally unique lady. 

We went to a dance to celebrate after a romantic dinner of Australian wine and reef fish over bok choy.
This is especially appropriate since we met on a dance floor over one year ago.

This is a truly special place for this new beginning for us both.

But before I wrap this up, I promised to leave a few special recipes for the local island cuisine that we tasted and enjoyed.

Some of my most memorable time was spent salivating over the local foods. Though simple dishes, they reflect the complex history of the Micronesian archipelago's Hispanic-Asian-influenced native culture. I met this Chamarro chef at a fiesta we attended. She willingly shared with me and now I will do so with you!

Some of my favorites include:

Creamed Spinach in coconut sauce

Roasted pig

·         Red rice:  This is a seasoned blend of rice and spices colored with annatto seeds from the achote plant. It was the Spanish that introduced achote to the island.  When soaked in water with the rice, this plant releases an orange color. To this mixture is added bacon, onion, and garlic.

·          Chicken Kelaguen: This dish has chopped chicken meat (and I did have it with shrimp and beef as well) with lemon juice, salt, grated coconut, and red hot peppers. I will share this recipe at the end. Oh, and they do make this with Spam as well. (Spam is another staple here as a result of WWII, and there is a special spicy version that is sold only in Guam.)

·         Chamorro barbecue: This is either beef, chicken, or ribs marinated in a soy sauce and rice vinegar mixture then seared on an open grill over charcoal. The locals serve it with Finadenne’ sauce.

·         Finadenne’ sauce: This is the basic condiment used in all Chamorro cuisine. It is a mixture of soy sauce, lemon juice or rice vinegar, chopped white onion, and fresh chili peppers. I loved it so much I persuaded a local Chamorro chef to give me the basic recipe which I will share later.

·         Baked and steamed fresh reef fish and shellfish of all kinds.

·         Oh and for dessert, the southern Red Velvet cake appears everywhere. It almost is a staple.

BTW, I did not lose any weight during this adventure.

And now for a couple of recipes as promised...

Finadenne’ dipping sauce

The locals use this on everything...its very good. Try it.

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup white vinegar (or juice from 2 lemons)
• 3 tbsp soy sauce
• 1/4 cup chopped green or white onions
• 3 small red peppers, crushed 

Directions

Combine all ingredients and stir. Serve this sauce with any Chamorran meal. It can be spooned over food or used as a dipping sauce.

Kelaguen

A pickling marinade of lemon juice, fresh coconut, green onions salt and red chilies is used to marinate cooked chicken. Raw shrimp, fish or beef. With the exception of the cooked chicken, the acids in the marinade “cook” the shrimp, fish or beef instead of heat. Serve cold or at room temperature and eaten as is or over rice, or wrapped in a warm corn or flour tortilla with finadenne on the side as a sauce.

Ingredients: (chicken keleguen)

•   Whole chicken 
•   1 coconut, drained and meat grated (or use fresh pkged meat not the dry stuff
•   2 lemons, juiced
• 1 bunch chopped green onion
• 3 tbsp dried red pepper flakes
• salt to taste

Directions:

Preheat and roast chicken @ 375 degrees for 1 hour until leg moves easily in socket.  Cool slightly. Remove and discard skin and bones. Chop meat and combine all ingredients in a large bowl and toss. Make sure lemon juice and salt  and pepper flakes do not over power the other.

I hope you will try these....

Christmas is coming and

"All good things must come to an end" they say. And so this adventure.

 


After 12 days in this tropical paradise, our flight to the US mainland was uneventful, just long. We had to go 4 hours to Tokyo first and then connected to a 12 hour flight to Houston. Once in Houston, Daisy headed northeast back to VA, and I caught a commuter flight south to my winter home. 

My internal clock is just now getting re-adjusted to the central US time zone. 

Merry Christmas from Guam

Nothing like bare feet, beach and blue sky to begin or end a blog

Adios (which is goodbye in Chamorran, adopted from the Spanish).

A Visit to Tropical Guam Part II of III

This is the second entry of three parts. It picks up where Part I of III ended. If you have not read the previous entry, just scroll on down and read it first!

Everywhere has a lovers' leap!

Wonder if we need to tie our hair together?

We visited a number of interesting historical landmarks in addition to the WWII ones that were of special interest to me. There are remains of Spanish buildings and stone bridges and forts that date back to the 1600s. We also spent some time at ‘Two Lovers’ Point.” I collect stories and according to island folklore, two ill-fated lovers who had been forbidden to marry, escaped to this cliff, tied their hair together and then leaped to their deaths rather than accept the decision of the chief that his daughter should marry a Spanish ship captain. Oh, what we will do for love!

Flower-child I am

And there are still lots of jungles on Guam to explore, but we didn’t have much time for that.  Hiking here is called “boonie stomping.” The trails go through lush vegetation, by scenic falls and natural pools, and around cliff walls. I did tour some undeveloped hilly terrain adjacent to a golf course and an upper end residential area. On it I was shown the locations of actual tank relics from WWII.

Look in the upper left hand corner

Sherman Tank

Daisy was busy doing work assignments for several days and evenings.  During that time I explored the Tumon Bay area.  I viewed the hotels, restaurants, bars, beaches, and chapels. I found it intriguing to discover that Guam is a world renowned marriage destination for couples across Asia. On Tumon Bay there are at least 6 highly developed picturesque chapels and wedding facilities of various sizes. While we were there, wedding ceremonies occurred every day all up and down the beach front and in these chapels.

Inside of one chapel

Models

Outside of same chapel

Bride and sandy feet

Wedding party limo

One day, from our beach lounges, we counted 4 weddings in one spot! One was simplistic with only a pastor in white robe and red stole, bride, groom, and witness.  Another was elegant with 40 plus people, red carpet, music, and multiple attendants, all attired in white. The tropical surroundings and natural beauty made for lots of romantic magic and lifetime memories

cheers

On the non-beach side, there were Vegas-style dinner shows, bars, nightclubs, and other local hotspots with live music for dancing. With Daisy’s work team, we also went to a local cultural dinner show that highlighted the history of the island in song and dance and music.

We grilled our own meal of seafood, meats, and veggies ...

Grilled pork-beef-seafood-vegetables

Cheryl, Kathy, and Maureen: more of the team

... while island drums and ukuleles beat out a tantalizing rhythm for fire dances and beautiful islanders in grass skirts with coconut bras.

Entertaining use of coconuts

Tropical beauty

Handsome Islander

We even danced at one night spot that had older Chamorro musicians playing old school rhythm and blues. Another night we found a neighborhood microbrewery that served fresh pepper-coated Ahi Tuna.

The black, white and islander band had a fiddle, mandolin, and alto sax in it.

Flat-footing for the locals

Daisy and friend dressed for the Uptown

Did I mention food?
.

"Beggar's Purse filled with Ahi  Tuna

Ribeye over Bok Choy/Potatoes

I especially must talk about the evening meals that we shared. Daisy and I both like fresh indigenous meals prepared by hand and not out of a box. In Guam you can count on having tasty beautifully prepared meals

Scallops with Herb Sauce

Balsamic Beef Salad

Mushroom Lasagna Rollups

Coconut Chocolate Bread Pudding

Steamed/Raw Oyster Appetizers and Australian Wine

The only time I felt under-dressed was while shopping at the dozens of luxury name-brand boutiques with duty free wares. There was a solid block, three floors high, of high-end retailers of leathers, clothing, jewelry, accessories, perfumes, and cosmetics. The sales staff wore cocktail dresses and suits.

End part II of III

A Visit To Tropical Guam-Part I of III

Hafa Adai  (Hello)

Due to its status as a U.S. territory and its position across the international dateline, Guam has been coined “Where America’s Day Begins.”

 

Anybody out there have Guam on their bucket list?

Neither did I. But that has not prevented me from going. It started like this…Daisy was invited to go there for business and I got an invitation from her to go and have some fun after her business was completed. So after a quick decision analysis I came up with the following rationale. 

Fact:

·         I have never been there.               

·         I am a WWII history buff.

·         I have an interest in Polynesian cultures as a result of my previous visits to Hawaii.

·         I am always looking for new recipes and cooking techniques.

·         Daisy’s travel expenses while on business are covered.

·         The temperatures are warmer than where we are now.

·         I had this thing I wanted to do in a special place.

So it was a simple decision to go say yes to her invitation and then look on a map and find out where this small island in the western Pacific is. I discovered that by jet it lies 4 hours south of Japan and 7 hours west of Hawaii.  In other words it would be the longest airplane flight that either one of us had ever taken. 

So after research, and with the help of a patient travel agent, we were able to figure out a plan that would have us traveling together.  On Nov. 30 I met Daisy in Houston. We flew non-stop to Honolulu, an 8 hour flight. After a 2-hour wait we were to connect for another flight to the island of Guam.   

The flight got canceled by the airline and we were forced to stay overnight at the Waikiki Marriott Hotel—a tough life! The airline paid for lodging, taxi, and dinner.  We had a great evening with dining and dancing. 

Hawaii for free?

Diamond Head at Dusk

Waikiki in the morning

Evening meal with two pretty ladies on the terrace

Bloody Mary Island way to start your day

Breakfast setting for two.  Thanks Shannon

The next morning we ate breakfast at a place recommended by my daughter and strolled the beach and beachfront stores.  Our afternoon flight to Guam was another 7 hour one with a twist.  We crossed the international dateline getting there. 

So follow me closely here…we left Hawaii at 3:30 pm Dec. 1 and arrived in Guam Friday, Dec. 2 at 7 pm.

Finally Guam!

After clearing customs we were met by our hosts Patrick and his wife Maricar. 

They went out of their way to insure that Daisy and the team she was to meet there had their business needs efficiently met. Later, after the work stuff was completed, these two would also act as our personal guides on the island. Their help gave me a special insight to the culture, people, and history of this US territory. I am most thankful.

We had a bay view eight floor room

Spanish had an influence here

We stayed at the Fiesta Hotel on Tumon Bay, which is on the Philippine Sea side of the island. The Pacific Ocean caresses the eastern side of the island. The beach here is a white sand beach that is bordered by sparkling aqua waters that lie behind a coral reef that fronts this coastal area.  Called Guam's favorite coastal playground, the beach here is bordered at both ends by towering green cliffs. Daily tropical temperature ranges were from 76 degrees F as a low to 88 as a high. Trade winds are constant. We were there at the beginning of the dry season.  Our days were punctuated with frequent light drizzles of rain, high humidity, and low scattered white puffy clouds. Water temperatures were warm and refreshing in the bay.

We were in a weather rut of scattered sunny days..."more suntan lotion please"

Left-Middle-Right Views

(Click on them)

A few facts:

Guam, the largest island in Micronesia, is located in the western Pacific Ocean.  For over 300 years, Guam was ruled by Spain until 1898 when the island was ceded to the United States. Captured by the Japanese in 1941, the island was retaken by the U.S. three years later. Guam has become strategically the most important U.S.  military base in the Pacific. The current population of this island (which is 30 miles long and a maximum of 12 miles wide) is about 170,000 people.  The Chamorro people represent the largest ethnic group of the island at 37%, with the Filipinos accounting for 26%, and Caucasians at 14%.  The remainder of Guam's population, accounting for 23%, includes Korean, Japanese, Chinese, and other Pacific Islanders. Chamorro and English are the primary languages. The local currency is the US dollar (they did accept the Yen), and as expected we had no trouble using credit cards.

Daisy's team leader and me at a local watering hole

Daisy-Chan (our guide)-Maureen

The next day (Saturday) was a free day for us. We teamed up with Maureen, the team leader, and hired a Chamorro guide for a 4-hour tour of the island and its history. Our hotel was located in the middle of the island, which is the heavily populated portion and we headed south along the western shore, then back up along the eastern shore and across the north end. Our tour guide, Chan, made several stops along the way and responded to our rapid-fire questions on the people and the island’s history. 

Team leader Maureen and friend

I learned that the Chamorro people have been on Guam for more than 4,000 years.  It is believed that they came across the Pacific Ocean by canoe from Southeast Asia.  Their livelihood came from the crops they raised, the fish they caught, and the art they created. 

 

The island’s recorded Spanish history began with the arrival of Ferdinand Magellan in 1551. 

Part of 1800 Governor's Palace after WWII

Magellan landed in this bay

Like other societies, theirs was a matriarchal one in which the power and prestige of the women formed the survival building blocks for this native culture including its traditions, language, and arts.

This Spanish history continued until 1898 when the island was ceded to the US following the Spanish-American War. There are 12 villages (with local governments) on the island and the 333 years of European Catholic Church influence is evident in the people and their culture. The US eventually purchased Guam and other Spanish-held territories for about $20 million. (Not like the Manhattan Island and beads transaction).

 We made many stops on this tour, but one I will especially remember involved a coconut stand and a retired hydrologic engineer (“Coconut Joe”).

Machete pocket knife

We paused at one view point known a Fort Santa Agueda.  It was a Spanish historic site built in the 1800s that was to protect the city of Hagatna from sea pirates. It was there I met “Coconut Joe” and his hybrid coconut cart. Back in 1996 he got fed up the hassles of his business and decided to take up an easier pace of life.  All he had to do was make it pay, and he went into tourism. He has traveled all over Micronesia and in the process discovered a semisweet tasting hybrid coconut that not only has a liquid that is tasty to drink, but when the inner membrane was seasoned with soy sauce and a little wasabi, it became as delicious as yellow-fin tuna sashimi and sushi! The key is to have a fresh, immature coconut of a certain variety that he brings in from the Philippines. Chan, our guide, encouraged us to have a sample of this island delight and I am glad we did. Wonder if I can set up a franchise here in mainland USA?

The liquid was semi clear and light in texture and body

The flesh does tast like a fine grade sashimi

Now back to the tour.

There are memorials to all fallen civilian and military personnel on the island

It was on December 8, 1941 (the same day as Pearl Harbor but across the International Date Line) that the 5,900 Japanese landing forces invaded Guam. They were met on the beaches by 400 US Marines and Navy personnel and the Guam Insular Force Guard.  It makes a great short story because this defense guard was between 80 and 100 Guardsmen who had assembled to defend the Plaza de Espana, where the seat of government and the Marine barracks were located.  The garrison had no artillery, only a few .30-caliber Lewis machine guns and various small arms. Our guide told us that island lore states that the standard armament was the 1903 Springfield bolt-action rifle, but that the men had never trained with live ammo. The battle lasted less than one hour. The official surrender occurred on 10 December.

                         About 2,000 Japanese 2 man subs were built in WWII only 1 ship is known to have been sunk by them

Japanese 25 mm anti-aircraft gun would look nasty mounted on my 1 ton Ford

Patrick points to a listing of his family on a monument

For 31 months, the people (including our host Patrick who was a young child) were detained in concentration-style camps and forcibly subjected to the Japanese lifestyle. On July 21, 1944, the American forces landed on Guam to begin a three-week battle that resulted in the deaths of thousands of Chamorros, Americans, and Japanese.

We were there to observe the 70th anniversary of this invasion, and it was very low key.  My guess is that due to the large Japanese tourism industry and vested commercial interests, any observation was downplayed. And I found the Chamorro people that I met to be a very forgiving people—“what  happened in the past is past.” They seek balance and harmony in life.

The day of the teams first official meeting with the University staff was highlighted with a Fiesta featuring local foods and dance culture. I got invited to attend. Boy was I lucky.

Middle and high school dance teams shared their culture with us with chants, music and drums

End of Guam Part I